Hang Pagoda Ha Tien

Hang Pagoda sits inside a limestone cave at the foot of An Hải Sơn mountain, looking out toward the sea and Hòn Phụ Tử. It does not stand on a hill, and it does not stand on the shore. The pagoda is also called Hải Sơn Tự.

The pagoda's own website says it took shape in the 18th century. In the early 20th century, the Venerable Thích Trí Thiền founded the monastery on the mountain, restored it and gave it the name Hải Sơn Tự. The name suggests a pagoda on a mountain right beside the sea. Hải means sea, and Sơn means mountain.

What sets Hang Pagoda apart is the change of space. Stepping in, a visitor clearly feels the change. The sun, the wind and the sea stay outside, and the cave inside is still, cool and dim. The main hall, where the Buddha is worshipped, lies inside the cave. Tourism descriptions say the cave has two mouths, and the rear one looks straight out to the sea. Few places let a visitor walk from inside a cave out toward Hòn Phụ Tử.

The scenery around the pagoda is as much a part of the story as the pagoda itself. Hang Pagoda lies within the Hòn Chông National Scenic Site. Hòn Phụ Tử and Bãi Dương lie within it too.

From the pagoda, the view over the sea shows a landscape that has changed for good. Hòn Phụ fell on August 9, 2006. News reports confirmed the cause: sea waves, storm winds and the slow weathering of limestone over centuries. Hòn Con, the rock that remains, stands alone in the sea, like a small child waiting.

The area reopened in early 2022 after a period of renovating its infrastructure. The connecting roads, the sea wall and the boat landing were upgraded. One thing did not change. It is the feeling of stepping out of the glare of sun and sea into a mountain that is cold and dark. Then, looking through the cave mouth, a visitor sees the sea shining on the far side.