Ky Sam Temple

In the village of Bản Ngần, a temple stands on a low hill, close under a mountain. It honors a man the whole region remembers, though the history books say little about him. His name is Nùng Trí Cao.

Local sources describe him as a famous general of the Lý dynasty and a man of the Tày people. The Lý dynasty ruled Vietnam from 1009 to 1225. The Tày are one of the peoples of northern Vietnam. He is tied to the Quảng Nguyên region and to the memory of guarding the northern frontier.

The Cao Bằng newspaper reports that he was born in 1025. His parents were Nùng Tồn Phúc and Lady A Nùng. The Lý court gave him authority over Quảng Nguyên. It also gave him the title of Thái Bảo. He died in the 1050s.

Kỳ Sầm Temple is where the people of Cao Bằng worship him.

Local accounts say the temple was founded long ago to remember him. It sits right at the foot of Khau Sầm Mountain. He is worshipped under the full name Khau Sầm Đại Vương Nùng Trí Cao. The title carries the name of the mountain in front of the temple.

Three things stand out in the grounds, from the outside in.

The first is the three old trees. A local government source says all three are recognized as Vietnam Heritage Trees. They are a đa tía and a wild mango tree. The third is a gạo. Together they wrap the temple in a quiet, sacred stillness.

The second is the architecture. The Cao Bằng newspaper describes a temple laid out in the shape of the character Nhị, with a worship hall in front and a rear sanctuary behind. Its style recalls the Nguyễn dynasty. The Nguyễn dynasty was Vietnam's last royal dynasty, and it reigned from 1802 to 1945.

The third, and the most important to explain, is the rear sanctuary with its three altars. The middle altar honors Nùng Trí Cao. The altar on the left honors his mother, Lady A Nùng. The altar on the right honors his three wives. One is Vương Lan Anh and another is Đoàn Hồng Ngọc. The last is Trần Thị Cẩm. This arrangement shows a place that is more than a memorial to one hero. It also honors his whole family and the people closest to him.

The grounds also hold offerings that local people gave over many generations: a pair of bronze cranes, an incense burner and a bronze bell. In 2012 the temple was restored with funds from a national target program for culture. The Cao Bằng newspaper of that year reports that many works were finished, including paving the courtyard and fitting new altar platforms and ritual objects.

In 1993 the temple was ranked a National Historic Site.

In spring the temple becomes a festival ground. On the 9th and 10th days of the first lunar month each year, the Kỳ Sầm Temple festival is held here. The ceremony begins on the evening of the 9th with incense offerings and a sacrificial rite. The 10th is the fair. There is swinging and a blindfolded pot-smashing game. People toss the còn ball and play cờ tướng chess. And there is hát Then. Then is a ritual practice in the spiritual life of the Tày. Local products are also on display. It is one of the big festivals at the start of the year in Cao Bằng, and it brings together people from many places in the province.

Under the shade of trees hundreds of years old, the temple keeps the memory of Nùng Trí Cao. The land and its people have kept it for centuries, among border mountains and forest.