Tuy Van Mountain

In Hue, before the water reaches the sea, it flows through a wide lagoon. In the middle of that broad water, one small mountain rises and throws its reflection onto the surface. This is Túy Vân Mountain, in the Phú Lộc area, on the bank of the Tam Giang Lagoon.

From a distance, the mountain looks like an island rising out of the water. Sky, water and stone blend together in a way found only in the lagoons of Hue. On an early morning, a light mist still hangs over the lagoon, and the surface is smooth as a mirror. When evening comes, the sun stretches long shadows across the pagoda roofs and the old tower.

On the mountain stands Thánh Duyên Pagoda, one of the pagodas with the most special standing in the Hue region. It was named a national pagoda, which means a pagoda of the royal court. Emperor Minh Mạng and Emperor Thiệu Trị both came here. Each gave the pagoda a new name, and each had stone steles raised to praise the beauty of the scenery. It is easy to picture the two emperors leaving the forbidden palace, crossing the lagoon and climbing these steps. They came to look at the view and to have words carved into stone. That is why this is no ordinary mountain.

The stone steps up to the pagoda are not long, but each one feels like a step into another space. On both sides stand old trees and rocks covered in moss. A cool wind blows up from the lagoon. Inside the grounds are curved tile roofs, wooden pillars darkened by time, and the soft scent of incense.

At the very top stands an old tower. From here the whole lagoon lies spread out below. The water is vast. The small boats of the fishermen move slowly across it like black dots. Farther off, a strip of white sand separates the lagoon from the sea. This is one of the rare views in Hue, a whole region of land and water seen from above. It shows that Hue is not only a citadel, but also lagoon, mountain and sea made into one.

Túy Vân is not a noisy place. It holds a layer of royal memory, and a view that emperors found beautiful enough to record in stone. Standing on the old tower and looking out over the water below, a visitor finds that feeling still whole.